Monday 28 October 2013

Things I learned - Special Vietnam Edition

We spent the last few days of our Vietnam trip in Ho Chi Minh City, before flying back to Bangkok on Thursday evening. Among other things, we had a day trip on the Mekong Delta, experienced the fascinating spectacle of a Vietnamese water puppet show, and the much more sobering experience of the Requiem exhibition at the War Remnants Museum.

It was a great trip, and we learned all sorts of fascinating things along the way:

  • Ho Chi Minh, the first president, lived a very frugal life, fasting once a week and donating the money to the poor
  • What is the difference between a temple and a pagoda? A temple is for holy people - monks and nuns - whereas a pagoda is for the common folk
  • Saigon has a population of 10 million people and 7 million motorbikes
  • Ha Long Bay has a complex and fascinating geological history. There is evidence that people once lived in the caves when the sea levels were lower.
  • Vietnam is the second largest exporter of coffee, after Brazil.
  • Hoi An served as a vital port for trading with the Chinese and Japanese until the river silted up in the late 19th century and the trade moved north to Danang. The result - today Hoi An is a beautiful little town with a relaxed and tranquil atmosphere.
  • The Vietnamese language has six tones. When the French colonised Vietnam, the written language, related to Chinese script, was replaced with the Roman alphabet.
  • Vietnam's first university was founded in 1076
  • There appears to be only one rule on the road: so long as you sound your horn constantly, you can do whatever you like, especially if you are bigger than everyone else!
  • Boats on the Mekong Delta have eyes painted at the front to ward off dangerous sea serpents


Another one for my "Heather in a funny hat" collection

We spent a day in Bangkok to buy some books and resources for the schools, before travelling back to Mae Sot on Saturday. It was good to have a complete break and change of scene - my first real break since I got here - and wonderful to have the opportunity to visit another country in this corner of the world. One of the definite advantages to volunteering!


Sunday 20 October 2013

DIY Dinner

Tonight we tried our hand at some Vietnamese cooking:
Fresh spring roll with shrimp;
Hoi An rice pancakes;
Aubergine cooked in clay pot. Very tasty!

Saturday 19 October 2013

Friday 18 October 2013

Tomb tour

We extended our stay in Hue for one day to make up for the day we lost on the train, and did a tour which included several imperial tombs. Tomorrow off to Hoi An.


Thursday 17 October 2013

Trains and Typhoons

Not a good combination, as we discovered. Our 14 hour overnight journey from Ha Noi to Hue became a 40 hour ordeal as our train was stranded for over 24 hours due to the flooding. When we finally got going we passed scenes of devastation -houses flooded, roofs blown off, trees flattened against hillsides. We are lucky that we could pass through and continue our holiday - for the locals the clearing up has just begun.

Monday 14 October 2013

Ha Noi - first impressions

Traffic: even more crazy than Thailand
Currency: even more crazy than ltaly before the Euro
Pavements: not intended for use by pedestrians
People: gentle and polite
Dogs: almost completely absent :-)
Surrounding countryside: a bit like Lombardy but with banana trees (definitely not Scotland, Brian)
Pagodas: many and various
Deceased leaders: highly venerated

Great trip today to Ha Long Bay but no sign of the man with the golden gun

Friday 11 October 2013

Testing

So here is my first blog post from my new phone. Short and sweet - just seeing if l can make it work. Photos are from yesterday at the child care centre. My ukulele is a huge hit with the children. We sang a mixed Thai and English version of Old Macdonald. The animals make different noises here!

(Well, apart from the fact that the photos have gone all huge, that seems to have worked!)

Tuesday 8 October 2013

Smart move???


The deed is done! I have finally been dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st Century and have purchased a smart phone. I really didn’t want to; my dear old Nokia still works perfectly well and does everything that I have thus far wished from a phone – i.e. makes phone calls, sends messages and, as a bonus, wakes me up in the morning.

The only reason I finally caved in is that I am, for the first time, beginning to see the benefit of being able to communicate via such means as email or Skype when away from home and without a computer. With a trip to Vietnam coming up, I decided it was time to take the plunge.
I haven’t actually done much with it yet, and for the moment my sim card has remained doggedly in my old phone! While looking through the user manual at some of the amazing features that it offers, I came across this in the section on the alarm clock:

"Drag the Smart alarm switch to the right to activate simulated nature sounds prior to the main alarm." Well, now – what with the crickets, dogs, birds, lizards and frogs (not to mention the neighbours’ washing machines) I have no shortage of sounds in my local environment. The problem is they tend to wake me several hours, rather than minutes, before my alarm is due to go off. There are some things in life that can’t be solved with a smart phone app!



Farewell, faithful friend!


 
 
 

Friday 4 October 2013

Signs of change

Last Monday there was a meeting in Bangkok for all the VSO volunteers working on the Early Childhood Development project. There are just five of us now: two in Mae Sot, two in the south in Ranong and one on the outskirts of Bangkok. (One of the volunteers who started at the same time as me left her placement after six months.)

Even though we are all working on the same project, our placements are all very different, due partly to the different geographical contexts and partly to whether we are working with Thai schools or migrant learning centres. It was, nevertheless, very useful to have the opportunity to share what we have been doing, to celebrate successes, exchange ideas and confront some of the challenges.

For volunteers working with migrant learning centres, the challenges include:
  • lack of teacher motivation - most teachers are untrained and are very poorly paid
  • high turnover of staff - many of the teachers who have been trained on the project have left to take up other job opportunities
  • poor organisational capacity of school management
  • lack of resources - the centres do not have the resources needed for Early Years teaching and learning and are dependent on the resources funded by the VSO project, with clear issues for project sustainability

For volunteers working with Thai schools, the challenges include:
  • curriculum constraints - the schools must follow the national curriculum requirements, which do not necessarily lend themselves to appropriate ECD practice
  • parental expectations - parents expect a formal education with emphasis on written work, and teachers feel constrained by this
  • lack of appropriate resources such as good story books and play equipment
  • resistance to change on the part of teachers

For my own situation, I have to say that I have received a very positive response from the teachers, and the challenges lie in helping them overcome the factors that make change difficult. We have been back to three of the four centres so far since the workshop and in all of them we have seen evidence of the teachers putting into practice something that they learned, which is very encouraging. I have deliberately taken a very slow approach, taking time to observe and try to understand the context before suggesting small changes. I am aware that some of the teachers are very experienced and that they are working within certain limitations, such as being a single teacher with no help in a large class of nursery-age children. Every time I come up with a bright idea, I have to check myself and imagine how I would implement it if I was in their shoes.

Since the workshop, we have started to do a little bit of teaching - mostly small group practical activities. One essential Early Years learning experience that is universally absent is any provision for role play. In the photos below we are with the very youngest children at one centre (1-2 year olds). There are very few resources in this room, other than the ubiquitous plastic bricks. We set up a "hospital" in a corner of the room with three dolls, three of the children's sleep-time pillows, a plastic bottle (for medicine) and my notebook and pen (which doubled as a syringe for injections).

It was clear the children had never had the opportunity to do anything like this before. A few of them came and joined us and a curious little crowd gathered to watch. I demonstrated being "doctor", examining and treating the sick dollies and making notes in my notebook. (One of the dolls clearly needed a hip replacement as one of her legs was back to front. I tried putting it on the right way, but then realised she had two left legs! I thought that maybe the extra disembodied leg that one little boy was chewing on might be the missing one, but that turned out to be a left one as well!)

One little girl in particular really entered into the role, taking over as doctor and even doing some role-play writing in my notebook - something else that the children get very little opportunity to do.




After the meeting in Bangkok, Alice and I stayed an extra day to buy some books and resources for the schools. At the workshop, I had used The Very Hungry Caterpillar as a demonstration text for story-telling, but I only had an English version at that stage. In Bangkok I was able to get some copies in Thai. The centre we have been visiting the last couple of days were doing a curriculum topic of "Living Things", so it seemed an excellent opportunity to use the book, especially as the children had been outside earlier in the morning looking for living things in the grounds of the centre, including butterflies. Here we are doing a double act, English and Thai:
 



Here the children are engrossed in looking at ants. Thankfully, none of them discovered the trick of focusing the sun's rays through the magnifying glass to set fire to them, though some of them had to be dissuaded from stamping merrily on them!


I was delighted to see that the children were given the opportunity to draw the living things they had seen. So far I have seen little evidence of any free drawing. The results were quite impressive!